The rest are sold on to second-hand clothing dealers or recycling firms, who pay the charities around 45p per kilo. When we donate clothes to a charity shop, staff select those of good enough quality to be re-sold in store. As are the growing number of British second-hand clothing companies who buy up garments and sell them abroad. The UK’s charity shops and the way they pass on unwanted clothes is also coming under increased scrutiny. So who is responsible for the cheap cast-offs being dumped on countries such as Ghana? From the High Street giants mass-producing cheap designs to fashion-conscious Brits’ insatiable appetite for new clothes, the answer is far from straightforward. Indeed, some of the 5,000 predominantly Christian stall-holders can be seen saying prayers before cutting them open, in the hope that what lies inside will make them some kind of profit. ‘They often have no idea what to expect inside the bales.’ ‘A lot of the traders would say their business is about gambling,’ says Liz. Packed in bales of varying quality and weighing between 50-100kg, many are sold unseen to traders for between £80 and £150 each. In Kantamanto, around 15 million items of clothing arrive every week via the Ghanaian port of Tema - mostly from the UK. They can’t sell it and so it ends up being thrown away.’Īmong the twisted morass of cast-offs are trousers, tops and dresses from High Street stores such as H&M and M&S Traders constantly reference the fabric as not being of good quality. ‘Too much clothing is being manufactured because of fast fashion, and a lot of it isn’t made for a second life. ‘The textile mountain is an environmental catastrophe,’ says Liz Ricketts, co-founder of The OR Foundation, a non-profit organisation researching the environmental, social and economic impact of the second-hand clothing trade in Accra. Cheap single-use items are the biggest problem - personalised T-shirts printed for stag dos or sports tops presented at the end of marathons.ĭumped in landfill sites and in the sea, they are left to decay, forming a poisonous clothing soup which spews toxins into the environment as the fibres break down. Most of the clothes sent to Ghana come from the UK, which is the second biggest exporter of worn clothing in the world. Now the quality of some stock has become so poor that it has no resale value at all, despite the best efforts of the market’s highly skilled tailors and seamstresses. The term was coined at a time when it was impossible to imagine that anyone still living would have given away the well-made clothes that had begun arriving in West Africa from the U.S. One of the entrances to Kantamanto still bears the words ‘Obroni W’awu’ - an Akan phrase meaning ‘dead white man’s clothes’. It is a far cry from the Sixties, when Ghana’s flourishing second-hand market was in its infancy. More than 50 tonnes a day are being discarded, and many items are being dumped on wasteland and beaches and then finding their way into the sea. And without the systems in place to recycle it, around 40 per cent of the used clothes imported into the country ends up rotting in landfill sites. While this West African country has enjoyed a flourishing second-hand clothes market for more than half a century, the deluge of worn garments arriving there is overwhelming the country’s infrastructure.Ī significant percentage of the clothing sent to the main market, Kantamanto - one of the largest second-hand clothing markets in the world - is unsaleable.
In Ghana, a major recipient of the UK’s second-hand clothing, the problem has reached breaking point. ALL SALES FINAL.What a waste: ITV’s Penny Marshall (left) and Liz Ricketts of The OR Foundation wade through a clothing mountain in Accra
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